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buyers old computers hyderabad call@ 8885420929
Laptop Troubleshooting and Repair call@ 8885420929
Laptop Troubleshooting and Repair in hyderabad call@ 8885420929
- Toshiba, Dell, HP, Thinkpad, Acer and Sony laptops
The first step in repairing any laptop or notebook is troubleshooting the problem accurately. For example, some people will run out and buy a new battery on the assumption it's failed when the problem is a frayed wire or a bad connector on the power cord, something that can be fixed with a little solder or electric tape. Likewise, a "dead" LCD screen could be a mainboard or video adapter failure, a bad inverter or a burnt out backlight. When the LCD itself needs replacing, it will probably be due to a physical crack in the glass or blocks of dead pixels. If your CD or DVD drive won't work anymore, make sure you've tried a selection of discs and try a cleaner kit before replacing the drive, and always double-check the connection before discarding the old drive. About the only problems that will identify themselves as imminent failures are increasingly loud hard drives or steadily decreasing battery life over time. The troubleshooting flowcharts below are linked to the full size troubleshooting flowcharts and text excerpted from "The Laptop Repair Workbook "
Ports and Power Connector
Laptops are sometimes plagued by internal failure of the physical connectors, like the modem or network port seems to be detached within the case, making it tough to get a good connection, or the power connector solder joint to the board breaks. The only way to fix these problems is to open up the body of the laptop, determine exactly what has broken, and do your best to restore it to the original condition, rather than just kludging it. The problem with kludging anything in a notebook is that the tolerances are so tight that your kludge might fail as soon as you snap the case back together. When soldering anything on a laptop board, use a fine tip iron and don't gamble on overheating the board and stripping away circuitry. Use a decent solder sucker to quickly clean up the old solder rather than fooling around with copper wick, and if you get the feeling you're taking to long, just stop and let it all cool down before trying again.
Power Failure
If your laptop doesn't turn on when you hit the power button, the power system is a logical place to begin the troubleshooting process. The laptop power system can be viewed as three separate parts: The A/C adapter that gets plugged into a power outlet on one end and into the laptop on the other end, the laptop motherboard or power regulation daughter card that monitors and distributes power to the laptop components, and the battery. The vast majority of laptops manufactured these days can operate without the battery installed. In some cases, the manufacturers will suggest that you remove the battery and store it somewhere cool if using the laptop in one location for extended periods of time, as in weeks or months.
One of the oddities about troubleshooting laptop power failure as opposed to PC power failure is that the battery gives the laptop an independent power system for as long as the charge lasts. If the PC in your home is plugged into a bad power outlet or its power strip is accidentally switched off you'll quickly figure out why. But if the power strip gets turned off while you are operating your laptop, or a breaker trips, or the local power grid suffers a brown out, you might not even notice until the battery runs down. That's why it's important to not jump to conclusions about laptop battery failures, and to try charging the battery under different conditions before giving up and buying a new one. Just because the battery didn't charge while the laptop was plugged in doesn't mean the battery is bad.
It pays to go online and read the owners manual for extending the life of the battery in your particular laptop model if you didn't do so when you obtained it. Some older notebooks require that you cycle the battery continually, only working on AC power for as long as it takes to recharge the exhausted battery. Many newer models want you to fully discharge the battery around once a week, but otherwise don't care about leaving it plugged in the rest of the time, and newest designs don't care what you do as long as the laptop actually gets run on battery for a reasonable percentage of the time. If you think your battery is running down too fast, make sure you have enabled the aggressive power saving modes in software (usually accessed through Control Panel or the manufacturers icon) which dim the screen, slow the CPU, and let the hard drive spin down when unused. Also, keep in mind that the level of estimated battery life remaining that causes an onscreen alarm can be set by the user, and if your default setting is very conservative (between 10% and 20%), you may want to experiment with a lower level (between 3% and 5%) that will still give you time to save your work and shut down before the laptop goes into hibernation.
If the external monitor works fine, your failure is with the laptops video subsystem, which is usually contained entirely in the screen/lid assembly. There is a decent chance that one of the cable bundles (video signal or power) that run through the hinges to the video subsystem has failed, so unless the failure is obvious (cracked screen, fading in a corner, faint image, bad pixels), you should still open up the main body of the laptop as well to visually inspect the connections. The easiest problem to identify is obviously a cracked LCD, but a slowly increasing number of dead spots or whole rows or columns on the screen indicates the the actual LCD assembly is bad. Replacing the LCD is pretty much the same on most notebooks, Dell has a nice backlight design, the real challenge is getting the lid open and removing it without breaking anything.
Hard Drive Failure
Fortunately, laptop hard drives are the one really generic part (aside from most memory) that you don't have to worry too much about replacing. I just pricewatch or call dirtcheapdrives and buy the closest capacity match, which is usually somewhat larger. Depending on the model, you may be able to really upgrade to a much bigger drive on a replacement, but you probably won't get the benefit of a faster interface on an older notebook and the BIOS may not recognize most of the capacity, so there's no point in spending much more than you have to. Laptop hard drives can be extremely easy to replace or moderately difficult. The difference lies in how they are accessed. Many older notebooks allow you to replace the hard drive through a single-screw access panel on the bottom of the unit, sometimes it's right under the battery or the RAM. Other laptops require that you crack the body open, remove the keyboard or the motherboard (assembly varies from manufacturer to manufacturer), really take the whole thing apart. The interface for the IDE cable on the drives that come out easy is often fixed in place, so the drive basically plugs in, while the drives that require you to take the whole thing apart often make remove the connector on a flexible (and fragile) flat cable before removing the drive. Laptop hard drive replace is generally so easy that I recently talked a friend through the the harder kind, with the hard drive under the keyboard, by way of a couple e-mails. He was so pleased that he decided to replace the keyboard for $8 while he was at it since many of the keys labels were worn off.
Laptop Fan Failure
Increased fan noise may be your first indication that your laptop is running on the hot side. It can be extremely irritating to work on a laptop with a loud fan that frequently cycles on and stays on for extended periods. A well designed laptop with good power management should be almost silent in normal usage, with the exhaust fan becoming audible only during periods of intensive computation. Fan speed is also controllable, so a well designed laptop will run the fan just fast enough to keep the temperature in the ideal operating range. However, some manufacturers go overboard on packing in high performance components to create a power laptop in the "desktop replacement" style, and these monsters tend to run hot even when they are in new condition. Go online and read some customer reviews of your laptop when you first suspect overheating. If the reviews include a common thread, like "the left side of the keyboard becomes too hot to type after fifteen minutes," it means your laptop was poorly engineered.
Cheap used laptop prices in hyderabad call@ 8885420929
Cheap used laptop prices in hyderabad call@ 8885420929
- Buying a second hand Dell, Toshiba, IBM, Sony, HP or Apple Notebook
I'll start with a basic pricing table, nothing like the Blue Book values for laptops you may have seen. The explanations come below the table.
| $299 - $349 | Buy a brand new laptop with factory and store rebates. Make sure you fill out the rebate paperwork correctly. You'll get a recent CPU, 2.0 to 4.0 GB a 250 GB to 500 GB hard drive, a DVD/CD player/burner, USB 2.0, 100BaseT, built in wireless 802.11G or N, a new warranty and Windows 7 installed. The $299 models from Toshiba, Lenovo and Acer are more than good enough for most users. For $349, you get a bigger hard drive, a slightly faster CPU. If you spend more than that, you're looking at a business or a gaming laptop. |
| $199 - $399 | I wouldn't consider buying a second hand laptop in this range unless it was less than a year old and featured specs much better than the model above, like a light weight business model (not a NetBook), plus a legal, licensed version of Microsoft Office. The only exception would be for a top line gaming laptop. I wouldn't call this a bargain price range, but it's not a bad deal. Stay the heck away from the $250 laptops sold as factory reconditioned online with tiny hard drives, 1 GB of memory and slow wireless. They are five years old and they're a rip-off/ |
| $99-$199 | Same as above, though I'd suggest shopping for NetBooks rather than buying the cheapest new Compaq. I still wouldn't touch a slow CPU in this price range, or less than 1 GB RAM with XP professional and a 100 GB+ hard drive. Whatever the model, and I'd still be looking for Microsoft Office to be installed, and no more than two years old (manufacturing date) so the battery might have a little life left. I would only buy a second hand laptop in this price range period if it was as good as the laptops listed above, but a little older. It's just a really bad price point where you get conned into thinking you're saving money, but you end up having thrown away half the price of a new laptop on something you'll never be happy with. It's going to be slow, noisy, and run hot - that's why they're selling it. The exception is an overbuilt laptop from your office, but only if it includes all the software. |
| $0-$99 | A laptop running XP or Vista between 512 MB RAM and 2.0 GB of RAM, decent wireless 802.11G (avoid the slower "b") a CD Recorder and DVD readrer, and a battery that holds a charge for at least a half hour. The important thing is that you sit down with it and use it for the purpose you are buying it for a half hour before buying. If the seller won't let you do that, save your money another week and buy a new one. You wouldn't throw away a hundred or two hundred bucks on a TV that couldn't receive cable, so why do it with a used laptop? |
| Free | If I really needed a free laptop just to type on or get e-mail, I'd settle for anything with Windows XP a WiFi that works. You can buy a cheap USB dongle for WiFi for $20, but that's the only upgrade I'd consider. If it's free, you can take it home and try it. If you're paying, make the seller demonstrate connecting to the Internet. Test the CD drive as to make sure you can install new software new software, and rbing a memory stick to test the USB ports, at least one has to work. Don't consider any operating system older than Windows XP. And remember, when you find out it's junk and want to throw it away, your town may charge you $10 or $20 for disposal. |
Not everybody has a rich uncle or a sibling to give them a second hand laptop for free, so there's a market for used notebooks, everywhere from ebay to newspaper adds, company-to-employee sales to PC shops, and of course, Internet sites. The major used laptop sellers on the Internet are usually selling reconditioned or remanufactured units, where reconditioned basically means they turned it on and it worked and remanufactured means something was broken so they replaced it. Factory second means it failed the final test at the factory, so instead of shipping it, the reworked it on the spot and didn't sell it as new. All that makes it sound like there will be bargains galore available, but here's the bad news.
There are actually more brand name laptops than desktops these days, with the most popular models being the Dell Latitude, Toshiba Satellite, Sony Vaio, HP Pavilion, IBM Thinkpad and Apple iBook. Most of these models have been around forever, which means you can't just buy a Thinkpad and assume that you're getting a recent IBM laptop. The Thinkpad, Sony Vaio and the Apple Powerbooks probably hold their value a little better than the other brands, because they are rarely sold at deep discounts, even on closeout. However, I don't see any reason to pay for name recognition in a cheap used laptop, and notebooks that are still operating after a couple years are well beyond any initial quality concerns. Don't be surprised if every Satellite you see has a dead battery.
Second hand laptop prices are always discounted from their list price. Their original list price! You couldn't find a laptop priced for less than a grand a few years ago. A company that bought a bunch of cheap laptops a five years back for a $1000 each and is now upgrading them to new laptops will offer them to employees at 50% off. The employees think it's a great bargain and pay $500 for obsolete junk (often with the software removed if the company is conscientious) when they could be buying a brand new laptop for the same price that's several generations better. I'm not exaggerating here, it happens all the time.
The same thing happens with the reconditioned notebooks sold over the Internet or on ebay. The seller says, "List price $1,299" or "I paid $1,349" but they're talking about a retail laptop prices without rebates that are three or five years old. Look carefully at the capabilities of these notebooks. If they were really high-end at the time, the CPU speed might be a little higher than the $299 new laptop with rebates, but it probably won't have as much memory, may not have a DVD player, if it has wireless, it will be an external adapter, the battery will be on its last legs, and the screen will have dead pixels. The model that "listed" at $1,299 will be promoted as a steal at $395, and the $1,349 laptop (with "$1,000 of software I added") will have a minimum bid of $600. They may get it to, but not from you (I hope). You should be buying a tremendous new laptop for that kind of money, with a new warrantee, and all the latest bells and whistles for loading your digital camera film, etc.
Then you finally find some cheap used laptop prices, between $99 and $299, or an ad for laptops in the UK less than 100 pounds. Sounds a lot better on the face of it, but when I did some Internet shopping and lets see what I came up with. The "Special" on one of the Internet's top sites was a 650 MHz HP notebook Pentium III with Windows 98. They were selling it for $229 before shipping and handling. That's ten year old technology! No wireless, an 18 GB hard drive (cheap new notebooks ship with 60 GB hard drives, three times the capacity), and while I like Windows 98, Windows XP is required for all manner of new software. The same store offers a whole range of used laptop models for $199, all with tiny hard drive (6 GB), or 1/10 of what you'd get in a $299 new model), Windows 98, 128 MB of RAM and CPU speeds under 400 MHz!! These are typical prices for used notebooks, and you're paying 60% of the price of a new laptop that will actually do everything you want for one that won't run software you need and can't be upgraded. All over the Internet I see second hand laptops with ancient CPU's an 1 GB RAM selling for between $299 and $499, advertised as bargains, it's just insane. Just by a new one call@ 8885420929
Second Hand Computer Prices in hyderabad call@ 8885420929
Second Hand Computer Prices call@ 8885420929
Computer Price/Value
|
Description
|
We start with new computer price
ranges for comparison. Note that I'm not showing packages, with the printer
and monitor. Printers are practically free with rebates and monitor prices
should be figured separately.
|
$199-$349
|
New economy system from
brand-name.
|
You can expect to get a closeout
model from last year, equipped with either an AMD or Intel CPU in the 1.5 GHz
to 3.0 GHz range with a 250 GB or larger hard drive, 1 GB or 2 GB of RAM and
CD/DVD recorder at the higher end of the price range. It will have build in
networking, a 56K modem, a motherboard integrated video adapter, and a cheap
power supply. Don't purchase one of these systems to upgrade it, but they are
ideal for students going to college or a first PC for the homeowner or small
office.
|
$349-$499
|
New Brand Name PC
|
You can buy a really top
performing PC at the high end of this range, and the low end is more than
good enough for any home or office application. It won't be a serious gaming
PC, but it will have one of the latest model Intel or AMD CPU's (though not
the highest speed), a big hard drive (greater than 500 MB), 3 GB of RAM, and
a high performace graphics card featuring nVidia or ATI, and the case may not
be fully expandable.
|
$499-$3999
|
Gaming / Multimedia PC
|
Name brand manufacturers sell
computers they call "multi-media" PC's, and some of these units
will have a decent discrete video card, an extra large hard drive and 4 GB of
RAM,. A real gaming PC from a company like Alienware will start around $599
and go right up through $4,999. At the high end, you're buying a computer
with multiple high-end video adapters (they share the load to speed graphics
performance), super fast hard drives in RAID arrays for performance, mounds
of RAM, the fastest multi-core 64 bit CPU available, every bell and whistle
imaginable, including a stylish case. You don't buy one of these without
studying product reviews for a few months in magazines.
|
Free
|
Old brand-name economy system
|
There's just no sense in paying
anything for an old economy system. I'm defining "old" here to mean
it was purchased new more than 2 years ago. If you shop around, you'll be
able to buy a better computer instead for whatever they're asking. Again,
this doesn't include the monitor or the software. If you feel the monitor and
the software are worth $50, go ahead, but keep in mind you won't be able to
move that software to a new PC when you pay to get rid of the old one.
|
$0 - $50
|
Used brand-name economy system
|
A brand-name computer that's less
than 2 years old, includes a DVD player and CD recorder, at least an 120 GB
hard drive, 1 GB of RAM, and works like a charm when you test it. Never buy a
used PC without taking it for a test drive first. The owner may think it's
worth more because 2 years ago, economy PC's cost around $400, buy you point
out that you can get a new one for $200 today, and they should come around.
Windows XP must be installed.
|
$50 - $100
|
Used brand-name PC
|
This is a brand-name PC with a DVD
recorder, a reasonable number of ports (USB 2.0, Firewire), and hopeful some
other junk they've accumulated over the years. Hard drive should be 120 GB or
greater, 1.0 GB or more of RAM running XP or 2.0 GB running Vista. A decent
keyboard, mouse and speakers should be included, try listening to the
speakers with a music CD. Don't pay more for multiple drives (ie, a CD
Recorder and a discrete DVD player), it's not worth more than a combination
unit.
|
$100 - $150
|
Used brand-name multimedia PC
|
Should have a decent Intel or AMD
CPU, with a minimum of 2.0 GBof RAM and a ATI or nVidia video adapter. At
least an 250 GB hard drive, 4 or more USB 2.0 ports (front and back),
Firewire and a memory slot for digital camera memory. Make sure the software
for recording DVD's is installed,that the fans aren't noisy. Also, make sure
the video adapter is discrete (not integrated on the motherboard) and that
the card has at least 128 MB of video RAM. It's not really a multi-media box otherwise.
|
$150 - $500
|
Used hobbyist PC
|
A hobbyist is going to know every
bit of hardware in the box and what he paid for it. Make sure the motherboard
supports PCI Express, and the video adapter is an PCI Express adapter with at
least 256 MB RAM (the old AGP 8X is pretty long in the tooth). Make sure the
power supply is a brand name, at least 400 watts, that he paid at least $60
for. Memory must be DDR-2 or DDR-3. Don't be surprised if he thinks the sound
card is worth a lot of money, it isn't to you. Expect five hundred GB of hard
drive capacity spread across two or more drives. Just add up what he spent on
all the parts and if the system is less than two years old, it's worth an
absolute maximum of half that, up to $500. It's not worth over $500, whatever
is in there, and if it's more like 2-3 years old, I wouldn't pay a quarter or
the original of the parts cost.
|
$500 - $1000
|
Used Gamer PC
|
The only situation in which I'd
consider paying this much for a used computer is if the seller is a member of
the gaming community you know who is upgrading to a new gaming PC for several
thousand more. This gets into the area of it being worth what you want to pay
for it, so sit down and play some games you're familiar with on the thing.
The sound system is critical, don't get sucked into some deal where the
speakers aren't included. If it's more than a year old, I wouldn't even
consider it.
|
$1000 - $2000
|
New Gamer Distress Sale
|
I'm only mentioning this to avoid getting angry e-mails. If your best friend spent a couple thousand dollars on
an Alienware box a few weeks ago, but now he's getting married with a kid on
the way, you can pay more than 50% of what he paid for it if it's really what
you want. Call them and see if they'll officially transfer the warranty to
you. It better have PCI Express video and a many-core CPU at this price.
|
Getting onto the hardware. We're going to look at value by CPU family, which means you have to really have to turn the PC on to see what processor is installed. I would never purchase a used PC without first sitting down and running a few installed applications, shutting down and restarting to see if there are start-up errors, and using System icon in Device Manager, Control Panel>Device Manager>System to get the System Properties display which has been part of Windows for as long as I can remember.
Not the System Properties reports on the Operating System and release installed, the CPU and speed (This is my notebook with a 1.3 GHz Celeron), and the about of RAM installed (it's actually 512 MB, but the video adapter is sharing 32 MB, so it's reported as 480 MB). You can click on the My Computer icon on the desktop to see all of the installed drive, and right-click on the drives themselves and choose "properties" to see the capacity and the amount of free space. The unformatted capacity of my notebook drive is 60 GB, but the usable capacity is 55 GB of which 10 GB has been used.
Available CRT, LCD, LED Monitors with CPU call@
888520929
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